:sniper: that darned lawyer. :lol: Just Kidding. If you have alot of other decoys and are just filling in I would not be to concerned with the paint. I would use a brown, black, and white and call it good. It you are going with this method just don't use them near your landing area. Put them some place away from where the geese will be directing most of their focus...this is not to say they won't be checking out your whole spread. As they come in to land they with be checking out the landing zone and hopeful will not concetrare on the dekes that don't look as good. I know mine would look like a 2 year old painted them that is why I say that. :thumbsup:
Where can i get plastic cardboard for silo's?
i need to know where i can get some courragated plasitc for making my own silo's just to add numbers to my spread. i have 2 doz real geese silo's and love em'
21 - 40 of 65 Posts
i didn't read all the posts but i went to my friend who made signs and he sold me the 4 x8 sheets of white plastic cardboard for 13/ sheet. i made a couple hundred snows w/ them. came to about a buck a decoy. worked nice and i fit a huge spread into my family mini van. guys w/ trailers asked where i got that big of a spread w/ no trailer. good stuff!
I have posted this on another site, but I think it is good information on the coroplast decoys. I had many questions on how to make them, so I read up quite a bit and gave it the old college try (I am a few years out of college...almost 15 years to be exact). I purchased my coroplast at Midland Plastics in Madison, WI. Here is the report I made up....enjoy....
Homemade Goose Silhouette Decoys
Webshot Photos: http://community.webshots.com/album/553351392SZLqGv
Introduction:
I read quite a bit about homemade silos on this and other websites. I decided to make them this summer to get my buddies off my back. I told them I would make them last year, but never got to it. I decide to go the coroplast route, mainly for the weight. Most of the fields I get to hunt are 'walk in' fields. I decided to make 5 dozen for starters. There were two things that I could not get really good answers to on any websites.
1. How much do the homemade coroplast decoys cost? Websites state anywhere from $1 each to $3 each. I planned to keep a tab on the cost for future reference.
2. How durable will the decoys be? Websites say they last years and others say they are not durable at all. I will not be able to answer this question in the post, but they look good and the paint seems really tough.
Patterns and Templates:
A buddy gave me some sample silos to use for patterns. I cut the pattern out of cardboard and sketched in where I wanted each paint color to go. Next, I created construction paper templates for painting the decoys. I made two painting templates for each color of each style of decoy. This makes it easy to paint both sides of the decoy without carrying over paint (if you tried to flip the template over for the other side).
Cutting Them Out:
I bolted the 5 sheets of coroplast together. I positioned the templates on the sheets of coroplast so the channels in the material ran vertically through the decoys. The bolts were placed somewhat close pattern to be cut out. I used a Rotozip to cut the decoys out. 1 cut = 5 decoys. Cutting went pretty quick. There was some problem with the plastic melting at times. I believe this may have been due to a dull bit or incorrect cutting direction on my part. The melted areas and rough edges cleaned up relatively easy with a utility knife.
Stakes:
There seemed to be a lot of opinions on the websites about stakes for the decoys. I have read to use fence wire, flat stock, welding rods, and other items. I did some searching and found that 3/16" cold rolled steel round stock worked quite well. It fit snug in the 4 mm coroplast holes and was relatively cheap. I found the round stock at a local supply company for $0.17 per linear foot. I cut an 18" section for each decoy. I rounded one end and put a slight point on the other end of each rod. I put a small amount of Elmer's Pro Bond glue in one of the vertical channels in the coroplast. I pushed the rounded end of the rod up into the glue. I pushed the rod in so there was about 10" left outside the decoy. This glue bonds GREAT, but it does expand as it dries. I set the rods and left them stand in the garage over night. When the glue was dry the next day, I cut off the glue that had drizzled down the rod.
Paint:
My under-estimation on this job was definitely the painting process. I decided to go with a 4 color decoys (brown, black, white, and gray). In an effort to reduce paint problem, I decided to use the Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum paints for plastics. They run about $1 per can more than normal paint...I am hoping it is worth the extra money. Krylon has Fusion Camo paints that are 'ultra flat' (I used the brown and black). I used white and gray (flat) primer made by Rustoleum. White is made for plastics. Gray is not made for plastics, but was sprayed over the white base coat. I started with brown and painted only areas that needed to be painted brown (trying to reduce the paint usage). Once the brown paint dried, I used the black stencils and painted the black areas. Once the black paint dried, I used the white stencil painted in the white areas. I then followed with some gray in the chest areas of the decoys. Two observations were that it took a lot of paint and a lot of time to paint the decoys (the way I wanted to).
What I Would Do Differently Next Time:
When cutting out the decoys, I would limit it to three sheets at a time versus 5 sheets. I think it would help reduce melting and subsequent clean-up.
I would make the painting templates out of something stiffer than construction paper. The construction paper started warping due to the paint that dried on it. When the templates warp, they allow overspray onto area that you have just painted.
I will see how the stakes hold in the ground. I am a little concerned that they may turn too easy in a stiff wind. This would be the same for almost any round stock that could have been used. If there is a spinning problem, I may add another small rod or make a bend in the rod that is already in the decoy. I know some movement is okay, but I don't want all of them pointing one direction at the end of the day.
It would be a lot cheaper and quicker if the brown base coat could be rolled onto the decoys. I could not find any 'ultra flat' paint for plastic in a quart or gallon.
Costs:
5 sheets of Coroplast @ $11.00 per sheet $55.00
90' of 3/16" CRS Rod @ $0.17 per foot $15.30
9 Cans of Krylon Camo Ultra Flat Brown Fusion Paint @ $3.97 per can $35.73
6 Cans of Krylon Camo Ultra Flat Black Fusion Paint @ $3.97 per can $23.82
4 Cans of Rustoleum Flat White Primer for Plastics @ $3.97 per can $15.88
2 Cans of Krylon Flat Gray Primer @ $2.97 per can $ 5.94
Subtotal: $151.73
Tax @ 5.5% $ 8.35
Total Cost for 60 Decoys $160.08
Cost Per Decoy $2.67 Each
SUMMARY:
The decoys were quite a bit more expensive than I was planning. The biggest cost driver was paint, which I had over $80 invested. I think they look pretty decent for a first try. My hunting buddies also seemed pretty impressed. I would love any comments and suggestions you have. I hope this helps others that are thinking about making coroplast decoys. It definitely took more time and money than I was expecting…hopefully it is all worth it this fall.
Take Care,
Paulie
Homemade Goose Silhouette Decoys
Webshot Photos: http://community.webshots.com/album/553351392SZLqGv
Introduction:
I read quite a bit about homemade silos on this and other websites. I decided to make them this summer to get my buddies off my back. I told them I would make them last year, but never got to it. I decide to go the coroplast route, mainly for the weight. Most of the fields I get to hunt are 'walk in' fields. I decided to make 5 dozen for starters. There were two things that I could not get really good answers to on any websites.
1. How much do the homemade coroplast decoys cost? Websites state anywhere from $1 each to $3 each. I planned to keep a tab on the cost for future reference.
2. How durable will the decoys be? Websites say they last years and others say they are not durable at all. I will not be able to answer this question in the post, but they look good and the paint seems really tough.
Patterns and Templates:
A buddy gave me some sample silos to use for patterns. I cut the pattern out of cardboard and sketched in where I wanted each paint color to go. Next, I created construction paper templates for painting the decoys. I made two painting templates for each color of each style of decoy. This makes it easy to paint both sides of the decoy without carrying over paint (if you tried to flip the template over for the other side).
Cutting Them Out:
I bolted the 5 sheets of coroplast together. I positioned the templates on the sheets of coroplast so the channels in the material ran vertically through the decoys. The bolts were placed somewhat close pattern to be cut out. I used a Rotozip to cut the decoys out. 1 cut = 5 decoys. Cutting went pretty quick. There was some problem with the plastic melting at times. I believe this may have been due to a dull bit or incorrect cutting direction on my part. The melted areas and rough edges cleaned up relatively easy with a utility knife.
Stakes:
There seemed to be a lot of opinions on the websites about stakes for the decoys. I have read to use fence wire, flat stock, welding rods, and other items. I did some searching and found that 3/16" cold rolled steel round stock worked quite well. It fit snug in the 4 mm coroplast holes and was relatively cheap. I found the round stock at a local supply company for $0.17 per linear foot. I cut an 18" section for each decoy. I rounded one end and put a slight point on the other end of each rod. I put a small amount of Elmer's Pro Bond glue in one of the vertical channels in the coroplast. I pushed the rounded end of the rod up into the glue. I pushed the rod in so there was about 10" left outside the decoy. This glue bonds GREAT, but it does expand as it dries. I set the rods and left them stand in the garage over night. When the glue was dry the next day, I cut off the glue that had drizzled down the rod.
Paint:
My under-estimation on this job was definitely the painting process. I decided to go with a 4 color decoys (brown, black, white, and gray). In an effort to reduce paint problem, I decided to use the Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum paints for plastics. They run about $1 per can more than normal paint...I am hoping it is worth the extra money. Krylon has Fusion Camo paints that are 'ultra flat' (I used the brown and black). I used white and gray (flat) primer made by Rustoleum. White is made for plastics. Gray is not made for plastics, but was sprayed over the white base coat. I started with brown and painted only areas that needed to be painted brown (trying to reduce the paint usage). Once the brown paint dried, I used the black stencils and painted the black areas. Once the black paint dried, I used the white stencil painted in the white areas. I then followed with some gray in the chest areas of the decoys. Two observations were that it took a lot of paint and a lot of time to paint the decoys (the way I wanted to).
What I Would Do Differently Next Time:
When cutting out the decoys, I would limit it to three sheets at a time versus 5 sheets. I think it would help reduce melting and subsequent clean-up.
I would make the painting templates out of something stiffer than construction paper. The construction paper started warping due to the paint that dried on it. When the templates warp, they allow overspray onto area that you have just painted.
I will see how the stakes hold in the ground. I am a little concerned that they may turn too easy in a stiff wind. This would be the same for almost any round stock that could have been used. If there is a spinning problem, I may add another small rod or make a bend in the rod that is already in the decoy. I know some movement is okay, but I don't want all of them pointing one direction at the end of the day.
It would be a lot cheaper and quicker if the brown base coat could be rolled onto the decoys. I could not find any 'ultra flat' paint for plastic in a quart or gallon.
Costs:
5 sheets of Coroplast @ $11.00 per sheet $55.00
90' of 3/16" CRS Rod @ $0.17 per foot $15.30
9 Cans of Krylon Camo Ultra Flat Brown Fusion Paint @ $3.97 per can $35.73
6 Cans of Krylon Camo Ultra Flat Black Fusion Paint @ $3.97 per can $23.82
4 Cans of Rustoleum Flat White Primer for Plastics @ $3.97 per can $15.88
2 Cans of Krylon Flat Gray Primer @ $2.97 per can $ 5.94
Subtotal: $151.73
Tax @ 5.5% $ 8.35
Total Cost for 60 Decoys $160.08
Cost Per Decoy $2.67 Each
SUMMARY:
The decoys were quite a bit more expensive than I was planning. The biggest cost driver was paint, which I had over $80 invested. I think they look pretty decent for a first try. My hunting buddies also seemed pretty impressed. I would love any comments and suggestions you have. I hope this helps others that are thinking about making coroplast decoys. It definitely took more time and money than I was expecting…hopefully it is all worth it this fall.
Take Care,
Paulie
how thick should the plastic be?
what do you guys use as a stencil for the decoys???
Any print shop in your area will tell you where they by there plastic. I have tried many different colors but have fould black to be the best for painting. I took a chunk out of one of my shells took it to the harware store and put it on the color match machine and let them make me up a gallon of that color. It works. This year I just bought some flat brown Tremclad to touch them up as well as some of my shells. @ 11.50 a sheet, I think that is way too much. If you can find the supplier and ask for seconds you can get it for next to nothing. I have approx. 80 silos and it cost me the cost of the paint ($20.00) and a bag of venison chops!
I think I've seen it in 4x8 sheets in the paneling dept. at home improvement stores. White color.
Good luck,
Dan
Good luck,
Dan
Has anyone used been successful bringing in Canadians or mallards by placing shells on ponds that were frozen over? This is instead of breaking up the ice to expose the water than putting in floaters. It sure would be less work!
Love that name HonkWilliams!!!
I have only hunted once on the ice and it was 4 degrees and had been this cold for a week. The ice was 8 inches thick. We only saw one flight of birds and they were a mile away and never broke our way. Most birds either had left or found a spot on a river they could congregate. Now I have been told by a friend of mine that he had the largest group of geese he has ever had land in his decoys do it on the ice. He had shells and full bodies on the ice. One flight and they limited and it happened 15 minutes after they had set up. He told me that he knew someone that actually put a black tarp on the ice after cutting the corners to round out the tarp. He placed suck decoys on the tarp and some full bodies and shell sleepers on the ice around the tarp. Supposedly they had several flights finish some right onto the tarp. They think it is an open water hole. I can't verify the tarp story but it sound plausible. Good luck!
Here is a how to with pictures.
http://info.madduckoutdoors.com/index.php?q=node/75
It shows spray paint stencils and most all you need. Normal cor-plas is 4mm and you can get it at any sign printing shop in 4x8 sheets. I recommend grey or black as scratches hide better.
The sell 5mm and 6mm and you might want to look into them. i had some 6mm I got from a display back and make V board silos from it. It was really tough, but that does not mean 6mm at the sign shop is the same. Just check it out. The normal 4mm bend easily.
http://info.madduckoutdoors.com/index.php?q=node/75
It shows spray paint stencils and most all you need. Normal cor-plas is 4mm and you can get it at any sign printing shop in 4x8 sheets. I recommend grey or black as scratches hide better.
The sell 5mm and 6mm and you might want to look into them. i had some 6mm I got from a display back and make V board silos from it. It was really tough, but that does not mean 6mm at the sign shop is the same. Just check it out. The normal 4mm bend easily.
Guys, I'm a mechanic at a Toyota dealership, and there is TONS of the LARGE sheets of plastic cardboard from all the promotional posters and such in the showroom. If you ask one of the sales guys or the janitor, I'm sure they'll be happy to get you whatever you need. They just need a little sanding and primer (because of the other colors on the board) and you're good to go!! They just throw it out otherwise.
well seeing has how my friend uses tires cut in 4ths turned inside out with black heads on them, i really dont think you need to be pacasso on the painting, and i have seen 5 foot black silos used and watched geese decoy and get killed. just do your best and have fun hunting.
This is a great post, thanks for all the info guys. I just got off the phone with the republican party in my area and the lady was kind enough to gather up a bunch of their old campaign signs for me and I will be picking them up tomorrow. I am pretty excited to make some of these, I have never tried it but it should be a fun project. I was also thinking that at some point during the season when we get some geese on the ground that it might be cool to save the wings and salt/borax/dry them and attach them to the sides of the decoy to give them more of a 3-dimensional look. Anyone ever try that? Would be a cheap way to add some realizm I'm thinking but who knows.
Luke, ya got any patterns? I have a bunch of patterns, 7 different positions,all I have to do is trace em out on the poly....
I dont have any patterns actually, was trying to figure out how I was going to make them just now. If you have patterns I'd love to get my hands on some so let me know if I can buy some off of you to trace them out. 7 positions should be plenty!
That's exactly what I did when I made the cloroplast silos. I free handed each original pose ( I think I had 6) and the used a piece of thinner but durable plastic as a template for the feather detail. It was cut to match the bodies and all I had to do was lay it over the finished silo and give a quick spray of dove grey krylon to add some feathers. You can really crank out some good looking deeks for sheap.
Talked to a fellow that had a pretty good idea. He sat up a couple different full bodies decoys on the floor,set up a floor lamp behind them and simply traces the shadows out ...thought that was a pretty good idea.... have not ttried it thou but don't see what it would not work!
But, I've got them Luke if you want to use them...
But, I've got them Luke if you want to use them...
Thanks for the offer cut. I dont have any full bodies here just floaters but I think I might try the shadow idea first. Im picking up those signs today so if I screw some up this weekend I might take you up on it. Either way it will be fun i think, and if I play my cards right maybe I can get my wife to cut them all out for me!
21 - 40 of 65 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Goose Hunting Forum
A forum community dedicated to goose hunters and hunting enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about safety, gear, tips, tricks, optics, hunting, gunsmithing, reviews, reports, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
