Depending on how hard you are on equipment and how long you want it too last, the Ebay trailers might not be for you. Need to watch because most of these companies make an 'entry level' trailer. For Haulmark, it is the Cargo trailer. These aren't built near as sturdy. They have luan walls, the studs are further apart, etc.
I picked up a 6x14 with additional wedge front (17' interior), extra height, side door, vent, gravel guard, 3/8" plywood walls, 3/4" treated floor, sray on stuff on the under side to prevent rusting, interior lights on a wall switch, spare tire and mount, 15" wheels,2 big flood lights on the back and 2 big flood lights on the side with the door all mounted to a wall switch...got the whole package for $2600.
Have to pick it up at the factory in northern Indiana. It is a single spring axle I believe. Had the extra height and all that. I believe they said the available payload was still around 2500lbs or so. Could be wrong, I can't recall the actual number, but I know it was going to be no problem for all the decoys blinds, etc that I cared to carry, four wheeler as well. If you want to call them shoot me a PM and I can get you in touch with the fella I dealt with.
Back to the original question. Pro -Con of sgl vs dbl axle.
If hualing long distances at high speped (+65mph) the double axles are more steady with less side to side whipping than single axles are--especially if over 75mph Con is that the extra weight, tires, bearings to maintain and replace and that the doubles are much harder to pull in a filed--escpeically when wet.
BTW--get a torsoin axle as they ride much softer than leafs and ride lower too. Get it as low as possible-meaning 8" clearance at axle for a 10" step into trailer, easier to get into trailer and less wind drag when lower too. Also the center of gravity is lower-less chance of high side winds overturning the trailer on the highway. But some like a full 6-6" height--no stooping-but alot more wind drag too.
Lighting--get a 2 extra line wire harness (6 wire), one for left side, one for right side for the auxilary lights(split it up). 2 to 4 interior lights depending on size of trailer with 6 exterior rectangular tractor utility lights(2 left side, 2 back, 2 right)---these take juice--so split them into two circuits directly to fused lines to battery - otherwise you with be blowing the fuses.
Mount the fenders 3" higher than normal-or go 1 size bigger. Often they are too close to the tire and mud/straw will pack in tightly and almost impossible to remove it. It is interesting to see smoking tires on the section roads after pulling out of a wet field :x Also get stainless steel or alum fenders as the rocks chip the heck out of them on front side and get rusty all too quick.
And get a rock guard at front across the trailer. A V nose will have less wind drag-especially if trailer is taller than PU truck. I personally like a long tongue--makes for easier backing up and if the tail gate is down I can still walk between the trailer and truck-but make sure it is not too long if you have limited storage area(short garage depth). And vents as it can get way to hot and damage decoys in summer weather---4 vents min 2 high (front) and 2 low(back) and make sure they are closable. Get light color over dark color if storing the decoys in it over the summer
Utilitarian - meaning can the trailer do double duty? Making it more cost effective. Some will use it to haul their ATV(s) or Snowmobile(s) thus added length and tie downs in the floor or walls are requiered.
Hey Matt Klein, I got your PM about the trailer and somehow deleted it and the copy/paste of your email didn't work. Any way shoot me your address again. The place I got it was Cargo-Pro Trailer Sales. http://www.cargo-pro.com/ Tell them Tony Vandemore sent you.
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